A Death in the Family

We sprinkled some water on our banana leaves and washed them clean. Then the serving began, first some raw mango pickle on the upper left corner followed by carrot kosambri, potato sukke, ghashi, saasam and other Konkani dishes finding their […]

The Golden Armed River

After completing my first Central India trek in the Chhattisgarh section of the Achanakmar-Amarkantak biosphere reserve, I found myself at the origin of the Narmada and Sone rivers that lie across the border in Amarkantak, Madhya Pradesh. The springs lie […]

The Baron of Cawnpore

I was at my grandfather’s home in the Civil Lines of Kanpur for my cousin’s wedding, booking a cab for Lucknow, when I found something odd. Google Maps was referring to the road adjacent to the house as ‘Baron Carlo […]


The horse whip made from bull’s genitals swayed to and fro. The carriage driver held it aloft in his right hand and we immediately went quiet. With his left, he had pulled the reins of the carriage to a halt. His body is […]

Sedition and Public Order

Whenever someone is arrested under the sedition law of Section 124A of the Indian Penal Code (IPC), we talk about how it is a colonial hangover that we haven’t shaken off, about how India’s freedom fighters like Gandhi and Tilak […]

Maratha Malleswaram

When I was a kid, I used to think that this structure with Shivaji’s statue on top next to Sankey Tank in Bengaluru was one of his many impressive forts. I was stripped of the notion when I had an […]

The Thanedar’s House

“The main door was so large that a man sitting on an elephant could pass through. Just go there and ask for Thanedar wala ghar or Tote (parakeet) wala ghar. There used to be one on the balcony in a […]